Day 9
Dampierre-sur-Loire to Restigné
35k
Feeling a bit like a tourist. But, this was always planned to be the touristic part of the ride, with the hills coming later.
Our hostess at last night’s B&B, in addition to offering us Marguerite’s bedroom, served us breakfast in a cave – hundreds of years old, and apparently connected to the troglodyte dwellings up the road. So, we had to visit these houses built into and under the low cliffs on the south bank of the Loire. Extraordinary.
This delayed us a little before setting off on a lovely ride through the vineyards in brilliant sunshine on our way to visit Fontevraud-l’Abbaye to see the effigies of Eleanor of Aquitaine, her husband Henry II, and of their son Richard the Lionheart in what is, in effect, the Plantagenet family church. I read somewhere that the people of Angers have proposed the reconstruction of the Plantagenet empire of England, Normandy and Aquitaine (the three lions on the England football shirt). Gets my vote.
So, only 35k today. Short-ish ride into Tours tomorrow for the first rest stop. My regular cycling buddy James Markham arrives on Sunday. We all visit Chenonceau on Monday (Liz’s birthday), then Liz heads home on the train. Then it’s the long, hilly ride south.
Thanks for reading my blog. Daily updates will continue, WiFi connection permitting.
Troglodyte on a bike
The Abbey at Fontevraud
Quick comment from the troglodyte. The reason why Marguerite was in our room was that the whole village was connected by underground caves and passages. When she thought people were coming to killl her she nipped out the back of her chateau into the caves and popped out in different houses in the village.
Fontevraud was truly awe inspiring. Particularly interesting was the fact that it was a pioneer in having both monks and nuns albeit chastely separated. And it was run by women from 1104 onward.! The Abbess was in charge despite frequent grumbling from monks.
Just had delicious table d’hote with a couple who support disabled people by getting them to look after donkeys. They are donkey mad and our room has lots of artfully stenciled donkeys. High point also meeting the cat called Cannabis. Daughter joked this was the only Cannabis she was allowed in the house…
Really sad my time drawing to a close. Think husband will be pleased to have faster companions. But if you are a slower cyclist ( you don’t need to be a troglodyte) let me know and maybe there could be another slower adventure.
Liz
I will eventually accept your baton and carry the slow torch. I envy your trip through the Loire.
Doug
It all sounds a fabulous trip, what a route, so want to be there too! Gx