Malcolm Green Blog

Day 18: Perigord

Day 18, Sunday 24 September

Limoges to Excideuil


Feeling: Good but tired.

This has been a tough day, but, nevertheless, still good. 72k is quite a long ride in any conditions, but it’s been hot today – around 26 degrees. Tomas and I had breakfast with James at the Hotel de la Paix in Limoges, then said our goodbyes and headed off into the Perigord countryside.

I need to point out straightaway that Tomas is younger and fitter than me. He has run 15 marathons, and participates in crazy Swedish iron-man events involving skiing, cycling, swimming and running vast distances in a 24 hour period. In short, I’m now the one trying to keep up.

Perigord feels quite different from the countryside north of Limoges. You don’t get the pretty little villages of the Creuse, with, of course, the attendant tourism: you just get beautiful, rolling countryside, partly wooded and the rest farmed – mainly apple orchards in the last few miles.

We stopped at Nexon for coffee. This was a completely authentic country bar/restaurant. No tourists here. At 11:30 the staff were just finishing their own lunch before getting ready to serve Sunday lunch to their local village clientele – half a dozen of whom were already getting warmed up in the bar. La patronne had to tell them to be quiet so she could hear my order! I got a number of suspicious looks.

Then a lunch stop at St Yrieix-la-Perche, which has a perfectly preserved mediaeval centre:

By now, the sun was really burning hot, and we struggled a bit over the final 20k. We decided to walk up the steeper hills. This is actually more efficient than cycling as it requires much less work to achieve a similar speed; and it means I take the load off my quadriceps which are really feeling it.

Great to arrive at our B&B, welcomed by Ron & Sylvia. Ron knew exactly what we needed, and two beers came straight out of the fridge. They didn’t touch the sides.

7 thoughts on “Day 18: Perigord

  1. Julia Eilers

    Malcolm well done
    I am so impressed by your mental and cycling stamina
    And what beauty you are passing through

    Enjoy the warm weather all you can!!

    Jules xx

  2. Sue Hovell

    Well done Malcolm. We are seriously i,pressed with your stamina but, most of all your enthusiasm. You are introducing us to parts of France that we never knew; off the beaten track villages, B & Bs and just beautiful terrains.
    Keep up the good work.
    Sue and Suzanne xx

  3. Tomas Sterner

    Great blog Malcolm and a fun first day for me. Some really remote countryside with no cars and no noise. Lots of apples. Nice. But, it soon became a struggle between up and down. A long downhill period with the knowledge of up to come. This isn’t Holland! But, it is really nice to feel really tired. Good night to all of you.

  4. Barbara

    Hi Malcolm,

    How cool are you?!

    Thanks for sharing your travelogue and this lovely glimpse of profound France!